Ever since I was a little girl, I have loved turtles. Most seven-year-old girls ask their parents for a hamster, puppy, or kitty regularly. Maybe it was because at that point I already had a dog, a cat, a guinea pig, and a rabbit, but for me, it was turtles.
I would beg my parents to take me to the pet store on the weekends, staring into the tanks where the painted turtles sat basking in the artificial sunlight of a heat lamp or swimming through the water with just the tip of their nose poking out. Every time my parents took me to the Boston Aquarium I would make them see the turtle show with me, where Myrtle, a 70-year-old loggerhead, would swim slowly around the top of the tank and a marine biologist would tell us all about her.
When I was in third grade, my father finally gave in to my incessant begging and ordered me two baby turtles from the internet. When the arrived they were just the size of a quarter. I named them Myrtle and Yertle. Unfortunately, turtles are not good travelers as I soon learned. Myrtle only lived for two weeks after she arrived, Yertle even less. I was devastated.
Still, my love for turtles continued. When I went to Hawaii the next year, I was dreadfully disappointed at not seeing a sea turtle while snorkeling, even though I saw fish of every color of the rainbow darting about my feet. In Saint John, USVI in sixth grade I saw an octopus, but was still upset about not coming across a sea turtle.
Finally, my sophomore year, on a trip to Isla Mujeres, an eight-square-mile island off the coast of Cancun, I got my wish. Although Isla doesn't have much, one thing it is famous for is Turtugranja, a sea-turtle sanctuary. It's not very big, just a squat, dark building with a small pen on the outside and a tank next to the ocean. As I entered the building and my eyes adjusted a I saw two large tanks, each separated into three sections. In the tanks on the right swam three generations of turtle, one in each area. They were a strange greyish color. Upon asking one of the workers, I learned that they were albino! They can't survive more than two weeks in the ocean, because without their pigment the sunburn will kill them. Then he reached into the middle tank, which held a turtle about the size of a dinner plate, and scooped it out of the water. "Quieres tenerlo?" he held out the turtle to me. He showed me how to grip its sides so that its flippers wouldn't hit me. I posed for a picture as it flapped its arms and legs, like a bird trying to take flight. It's an awful picture of me, I look demonic with red-eye and a huge grin because I couldn't contain my excitement.
Then the guide took me outside and back in another door, where he showed me turtles smaller than my fist, some without fins or tails, swimming around in a little tank together. He explained to me that all these turtles were unable to survive in the wild, and that I couldn't hold them because they were so fragile. Next he took me to the outdoor pen, where he handed me a painted turtle to hold as well. He motioned with his hands next to his mouth, telling me I should give the turtle a kiss. I smiled and held it up to my lips - my turtle prince.
Sunday, September 16, 2012
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Isla Mujeres is 5 miles long and between a quarter and a half mile wide, so only a coupla square miles or less. The Tortugranja was one of the first places world wide to collect and incubate eggs...and includes a small aquarium as well as the turtle holding tanks and pens. The turtle conservation season in Isla is May 15 to Oct 15, and this year ~75,000 baby turtles are being released, mostly at public events. The mama turtles lay in our back yard and along the eastern coastal beaches at night, and the Turtle Farm staff take the eggs to be protected and incubated. It is pretty exciting to be woken at 2am by a BIG loggerhead mama digging in your back yard, flinging sand & rocks high into the air! Or to watch hundreds of parents & children releasing thousands of tiny turtles at the beach at dusk. They mate offshore, and can be seen from Punta sur, at the south end of the isle. Isla Mujeres is rich in Mayan, Mexican, and Caribbean cultural history and has over a hundred restaurants. You should check out photos of MUSA, the underwater museum/artifical reef with nearly 500 sculptures. (I write a daily newspaper/blog about the island...In Isla Mujeres)
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